The forts of rural Oman

The town of Bahla is dominated by a large fort, parts of which are thought to be pre-Islamic in origin (i.e., before the 8th century). Continuing on the road from Nizwa you reach Bahla, a delightful town which has retained its traditional characteristics. The town was surrounded by a 12 km long wall much of which still stands. The fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has been undergoing renovation for over 5 years now. The left side has been restored; the right has not been.

Bahla is famous for its pottery, most of which is still produced by traditional methods. Mud kilns are on the left, although they are now fired by natural gas rather than wood. Workers still extract and purify clay by hand.

From carpet making, leatherwork, jewellery to pottery, Oman has a rich and ancient craft making tradition. To be Bahla born means to enter a world where the ancient art of vessel making is the way of life. Oman Today is beguiled by the spin of the potter's wheel. This exceptional art is famous throughout the Sultanate and beyond. It is said that the potters of Bahla – apart from being born of land containing very special clay – are born with magic in their fingers. The fruits of this magic can be seen in modest homes through to top hotels from Mutrah to Mikonos.

The clay used in these vessels comes from the wadi floor, and to make it pliable enough to be worked on the wheel, men trample upon it. Any workshop in Bahla worth its salt has at least one dining-table-sized slab of clay covered in footprints fresh from its latest stamping. It is a time-honoured way to soften the clay before it is worked and reworked into a thing of beauty.

The town was surrounded by a 12 km long wall much of which still stands. Not much is known about Bahla's city walls (foreground), other than that they are in disrepair and not quite as significant as Avila's.The town landmark is Bahla Fort.

The fort at Jibrin dominates the surrounding plain and hills. Constructed originally as a palace in 1671 by a local Sultan (whose tomb is found inside), the building later had fortifications added. The painted ceilings are particularly impressive here. The building contains a prison, school, a large kitchen, and public meeting areas.

You may join a group of locals and guide in the fort's prayer room for dates and coffee. Omani Bedouins (Arab nomads) typically consume very bitter coffee with very sweet dates--eating the two together is kinda like drinking Red Bull and vodka together; the two opposite forces create an interesting mixture. The coffee cups slightly bigger than a shot glass, so one will frequently hand the cup back to the server. The cup is always refilled; shaking one's wrist when handing the cup back signals that one is finished drinking.

Omani Bedouins (Arab nomads)

An Urbane Nomads-style itinerary that covers the Empty Quarters in luxury
Oman, touted among punters as the 'next Dubai' could not be as far removed from its geographical cousin as a tourist destination. Luxury travel to Oman promises much in the way of stellar luxury hotels in enchanting natural surroundings- from the eco-conscious Six Senses hideaway Zighy Bay to the Chedi Oman. Testing the limits of accessibility Urbane Nomads-style, there'll also be luxury camping in the Empty Quarters, where guests can contemplate the silence and remoteness of the area in luxury.

Old Tanuf town - Tanuf Ruins are the remains of Oman's Inanimate Rebellion

Wadi Tanuf near hamlet Al Far
Al-Tanuf is a popular local picnic spot. Located near Bahla and Nizwa, the Tanuf Ruins are the remains of Oman's Imamate Rebellion of the 1950s. An unusual recent rain filled a wadi, perfect for swimming. To reach a parking spot, however, we had to cross the river in a little Toyota!

On the way wadi tanuf

canal that runs above the wadi tanuf.

local teenagers enjoys sloshing in an irrigation canal that runs above the wadi, tanuf
A group of enthusiastic local teenagers enjoys sloshing in an irrigation canal that runs above the wadi.

In the 1910s, the British Army had trouble controlling some local walis (local governors), which began in the 1700s when conservative tribes in the interior split from Muscat and elected their own imam (prayer leader). Economic stagnation in the late 1800s resulted from Britain's pressuring the Sultan to stop Oman's lucrative slave and arms trade. By 1915, a dispute over succession in the Muscat Sultanate boiled over and resulted in an attempted invasion of Muscat by inland tribes headquartered at Nizwa. A considerable amount of destruction occurred during the skirmish, including this town along the road from Muscat to Nizwa. The townspeople reestablished the town next to the destroyed area, which is now inhabited by vagabonds and cats.